New York Cork Report

Under Pressure: Victorianbourg Estate Gets Ready for Opening Day

By Julia Burke, Niagara Escarpment Correspondent
Photo courtesy of Victorianbourg Estate

Dan Hogue is just a tad stressed out when I call asking when I can sample his wines. “Can we do it next week?” he asks breathlessly, his cordial, down-to-earth voice as friendly as ever as he reminds me that “this week is a little… crazy.”

I can’t say I blame him. He has a brand-new winery to open, and he’s planning on participating in the Niagara Wine Trail Holiday event – which is tomorrow.

Last week, when I stopped by his property in Wilson, NY, which overlooks Lake Ontario, I chatted with Hogue in his temporary tasting room. Floorboards were exposed, nothing was finished, and the space was nowhere near ready – but Hogue was optimistic, and if his work over the last few years on what will become Victorianbourg Estate Winery is any indication, he’s well-suited to daunting tasks.

The “temporary tasting room” he’s scrambling to finish pales in comparison to the staggering mansion behind it that will soon house Victorianbourg’s tasting room and reception area. Hogue built it while managing his fledgling ten-acre vineyard, making wine and maintaining the nursery business that he took over when he purchased the property. “The building was designed and intended to be a focal point for the winery,” Hogue says.

There’s no question the mansion, and the massive lakefront property surrounding it, will ensure Victorianbourg’s status as a showcase winery in the region.

Hogue’s background is unique to the wine trail community: he was originally a cattle farmer in Kansas. But, starting a winery was a lifelong dream. He’s been honing his skills as an amateur winemaker for over 30 years. I

So, in 2005 Hogue and his wife decided to make their dream a reality. “We were originally looking at the Finger Lakes, and happened to read an article that identified Niagara USA as the area with the biggest potential for growing vinifera wine grapes. I had never been to Niagara County, so I said, ‘let’s drive up and check it out!’ We bought the nursery here and started planting grapes with the plan of opening a winery – which we’re finally going to do next week!” It’s an even more impressive accomplishment considering that the Hogues did everything themselves, from designing and building the house to grafting the rootstock to making the wine.

A farmer first and foremost, Hogue has an obvious passion for viticulture as he discusses his plantings and soil types. “My first love is the vineyard,” says Hogue. “If it got to the point where I could choose between running the winery and running the vineyard, my inclination would be to hire a winemaker and solely focus on the vineyard.” Dominic Carisetti, who works with several wineries in Niagara, currently acts as consulting winemaker, helping Hogue with the transition from home winemaking to a large-scale production. 

Hogue’s vineyard consists of ten acres of no-nonsense grapes. “Riesling, pinot noir, pinot grigio, and chardonnay are primarily what we have planted, totaling eight acres,” he says. “We also have merlot, cabernet franc, and experimental plantings of chambourcin, seyval blanc, pinot blanc, and gruner veltliner.”

The single largest planting is pinot noir. “I planted what I like to drink!” Hogue grins. “We were looking for varieties that would do well in colder climates. Whether red grapes will ripen well enough here, time will tell.” The 50-acre property has moderately well-drained sandy clay soil and a close proximity to the lake, which will offer frost protection. Now in their fifth year, Hogue’s oldest vines are producing fruit, and he plans to release three estate wines for the wine trail event tomorrow, including a dry riesling and a merlot-based rosé.

They’ll be greeted with plenty of excitement – after all, Victorianbourg’s opening is long-awaited and much hyped within the Niagara community. The winery has been listed in the Niagara Wine Trail brochure and on the Niagara County map for several months. Eager visitors hoping to taste Victorianbourg wine and tour the house have been pulling into the driveway all season; lucky tasters who caught Hogue at the right moment have been able to taste his wines, but for the most part the inner workings of the new winery have been as mysterious and enticing as Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory.

All this anticipation – and Hogue’s tireless efforts – will be rewarded tomorrow when hundreds of tasters will have the opportunity to experience Niagara’s newest winery. 

Brewery Ommegang Rare Vos

By Kevin Burns, Beer Columnist

Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, NY has established itself as one of the premier Belgian-style beer companies in America. Its ales are enjoyed across the country, and one of my favorite beers from Ommergang is their Belgian-style Amber ale, Rare Vos.   

Rare Vos poured a clear honey color with a thumb-width, frothy white head. The nose is interesting with fruity esters that result in a candy-like aroma, with yeast and spices mixed in.

The body is smooth with lots of malt and some sugar with more spices, orange notes, and light hops underneath. The finish is not to long or overwhelming but has a nice dryness that does a good job of balancing out the big front.

The beer has a nice effervescence and leaves some hanging lace on the glass.  

Overall, this is a really nice amber ale. The malts and sugar up front outweigh the hops, which might offend hop fans but I love the rich, deep body of this beer. The spices, malt and fruit make this my ideal Spring/Fall beer. Another gem from Ommegang.

Rare Vos will pair well with lots of different foods. In a past beer dinner I paired this amber ale with a chicken sausage and mushroom ragout which turned out to be one of the best dishes all night.   

Producer: Brewery Ommegang
ABV: 6.5%
Price: $3.00 (12 oz. Bottle)
Rating: (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

Love and Wine

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I was a man on a mission.

On the morning of Friday, November 13 I left my driveway in Syracuse, New York at 7:30 a.m. and headed west. My goal? To find a bottle of wine vinted before I was born.

This adventure was not so much the product of a whim as procrastination. The 13th of November was my wife's and my 5-year wedding anniversary, and I had decided a few days prior that this yet-to-be-discovered bottle of wine was to be the special treat.

For each anniversary, Kathleen and I do something we've never done before, albeit something cute and simple. On our first anniversary we stayed in a bed and breakfast. For our second we took a cooking class.

The old wine idea had been on a list of possibilities for some time. Kathleen was born in 1981, I in 1980, so a bottle from 1979 or a prior year was in order. The oldest wine I had ever consumed was a 1985 Dr. Frank's riesling.

The challenge: Find a 30-year-old bottle of wine for less than $150.

I had called every Syracuse wine shop with no luck. The Syracuse region is devoid of wine establishments with old collections for sale. I reached out to Evan, the New York Cork Report's purveyor of crazy old wines, and he suggested that I hit up Century Pittsford Wines in Rochester. I called ahead and they assured me that they would have something in stock.

On the morning in question, I burst through the door of Century at 9:07 a.m., seven minutes after they opened, and inquired about their selection of 30-year-old or older wines in my price range. Despite what had to be the unexpected nature of this odd request at such an early hour, Century's wine expert on duty brought me back to the climate-controlled room. He thought there might be at least a wine or two that would match my query.

We found nearly 15 specimens of Bordeaux and Burgundy that were 30 years or older and priced around $150. The selection of older wines at Century is exemplary and I could not recommend the store or its courteous staff enough for those looking for a superior wine shopping experience.

On the advice of the knowledgeable wine expert I settled on a bottle of Burgundy, a 1978 Remoissenet Père et Fils Volnay-Clos des Chênes. The bottle came to $145 with tax. I walked out of the store, stashed the wine in the car, and drove east so I could get to work in Syracuse before noon.

I unveiled the Volnay-Clos des Chênes that evening and it was a delight. The nose of ash and earth brought forth layered flavors of dark cherry, cocoa, tobacco, and dried chili peppers with a brilliant mouthfeel and a long, long finish. I can say without qualification that this Burgundy was one of the best wines I have ever consumed. Kathleen felt very much the same way about this incredible wine.

I cannot afford to drink like this very often, but in this case it was more than worth it. I've been a very lucky man for five years running, and I am grateful that I have a wife who is excited to share these simple pleasures that make life together so much fun. 

So, here's a toast to love and wine, a pairing that stands above all others.

The New York Cork Report 2009 Readers' Choice Awards: It's Time to Hear From YOU!

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor    

The editors have chosen our finalists for the wines of the year, but we all have different palates and preferences -- and now we want to hear from you. It's time for our first-ever "New York Cork Report Readers' Choice Awards."

In the comments of this post, nominate at least one New York wine as your choice for Wine of the Year. The rules are simple: The wine has to have been released in 2009. That's it. And if you aren't sure, nominate it anyway and we'll double-check the release date.

We're looking for nominations for wines from across the state, in each region, and we're leaving it up to you to decide which wines should be considered. You can even nominate a Leon Millot, a Vignoles, a riesling or a Frontenac -- there are no restrictions!

We'll leave the nominating open until December 15 at midnight. Then we'll tally the nominations and choose finalists.

From the 16th through the end of this month, we'll have polls set up for each reason to pick winners.

We'll announce the Reader's Choice winners around the same time that we announce the New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year as determined by the editors. 

So think back on this year... Which New York wines inspired you? Which New York wines were memorable? Which should be nominated for Reader's Choice Wine of the Year?

Q&A: Matt Spaccarelli, GM and Co-Winemaker, Benmarl Winery

Matt Spaccarelli in the cellar at Benmarl Winery in Marlboro, NY

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
Photo courtesy of Benmarl Winery

Matt Spaccarelli is new to the wine business, but has immersed himself in every aspect of Benmarl Winery's operations, now serving as the general manager and co-winemaker with Kristop Brown. Born just across the river in Hopewell Junction, Matt attended Fordham University where he was "completely convinced that track & field was my true major." He still holds the school record in the decathlon.

He was still at Fordham when his parents bought Benmarl in 2006, but he worked there part time until he graduated in 2007 with a BA in political science with a concentration in public policy. Upon graduation, he joined the new family business full time as general manager and assistant winemaker. Since then he's moved up to co-winemaker with Kristop.

This year he added president of the Shawangunk Wine Trail to his resume. All by the age of 26.

And now, onto our standard questions:

What (and where) was the first wine you remember drinking? Growing up I remember sipping wine out of my grandpa’s glass. He would always have a jug of something red under the table and I would sit on his knee as he smoked his filterless Lucky Strikes. As for the first wine that I remember having a glass (more like a paper cup) of was a Portuguese red called Borba. Again, it was with my grandfather.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
Besides my family becoming involved with Benmarl, I don’t think that there was a single event or bottle that made me fall in love with the wine industry. I think it was more of a series of events starting with my upbringing, making wine in the garage.

After that, it was my introduction to agriculture (especially local agriculture) by my brother Stephen, followed by my study of public policy at Fordham University. It is a combination of these and many other events (and wonderful bottles of wine) that have pushed and pulled me into not only winemaking, but the culture, politics and lifestyle that surround it.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
We just bottled our 2008 Hudson River Region Cabernet Franc and it seems to be very promising. We decided to bottle this wine unfined and unfiltered and it has pushed it into a direction that I would like to see all of our wines go, more terroir driven. As our vineyards mature and as we get more vines in the ground, I hope to grow more wines that reflect not only who we are, but where we are from as well.

I think that this wine is our first step in that direction.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Hudson Valley wine community?
I would have to say that it is the “community” of the Hudson Valley Wine Industry that has surprised me the most. We are realizing more and more that without regional attention we have little opportunity to gain recognition for the quality wines that are being made here. Because of that, we work together in grass roots efforts to push each other forward. It’s less of a competition then it is a group effort. It is everyone’s awareness of our potential and willingness to cooperate that has been most surprising.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I would say that it is a 50/50 split between wine and beer, with an occasional gin and tonic on a hot day or rye whiskey when its cold out. There is not a style of wine or beer that I truly dislike. Perhaps it’s the winemaker in me that finds something interesting about them all. However, I do tire quickly of “fruit bomb” and high alcohol new world wines, hopped up IPA’s or Russian Imperial Stouts. Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoy them from time to time, but I guess it’s a balanced beverage that most often fills my glass.

Is there a 'classic' wine style or beer and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Foie gras. The flavor is just not that interesting to me. Combine that with the practice of farming foie gras and it is not enjoyable. I am by all means an omnivore. I consume farm-raised meat as well as self-harvested wild game, but for me foie gras crosses the line of excessive.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
No matter how good the food, how fine the wine, or how beautiful the setting is, the company you keep is paramount. Without good company it is difficult to enjoy anything.

Secondly, it is the process that can also make the wine drinking experience enjoyable. A fine meal and wine paring at a restaurant is wonderful, however I prefer cooking at home using ingredients from the garden and meat harvested on the estate. The more you are invested into the experience, whether it be harvesting the food your self or know the farmer that raised it for you, crafting the wine in your own cellar or understanding the philosophy behind the wine you choose to drink, the greater the enjoyment.

Wolffer Estate 2005 Christian's Cuvee Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

$100 for a merlot...from Long Island?

Yes. Wolffer Estate Vineyards' Premier Cru (the former name for this wine) is perhaps known as much, or more, for it's price tag than it's quality. But, the wine sells -- in part because of the wineries Hamptons locale, but also because it happens to be very good.

And unlike some of Long Island's other high-priced "reserve" wines it is only made when winemaker Roman Roth thinks the fruit coming into the winery warrants it. I can respect that.

2005 was one of those years, even though what was a hot, dry growing season turned extremely soggy in early October. Wolffer waited until the rains had passed and the grapes had recovered to harvest the blocks that go into this wine, with impressive results.

Wolffer Estate 2005 Christian's Cuvee Merlot ($100), renamed to honor founder Christian Wolffer who passed away nearly a year ago, is made of 83% merlot from Wolffer's oldest merlot vines (planted in 1990, 1.6 tons/acre), 14.5% cabernet sauvignon from Roanoke Vineyards (planted in 2000, 1.3 tons/acre) and 2.5% cabernet franc (planted in 2000, 1.7 tons/acre) and it's made for the long haul.

The nose bursts with crushed blackberry and blueberry aromas with subtle dried plum character, toasty oak, vanilla, dark-roast coffee and star anise.

Medium-full bodied, this classic Hamptons merlot remains elegant and is well structured, with ripe, but firm tannins that provide the structure ripe blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and plum flavors with more anise spice, cedar, coffee, and toasty vanilla. The lengthy finish is marked by a minerally graphite note that I particularly enjoyed. 

Is it worth $100? I can't answer that for you. I don't know what your bank account looks like, but every lover of Long Island merlot should try this wine at least once.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Brix at harvest: 22.6 brix (avg.)
pH: 3.55
TA: 5.6 g/l
Oak: 21 months, 100% new French
ABV: 13%
Price: $100*
Rating:  (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive )

(Ratings Guide)

New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year: The Finalists

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

It's a big, fun day here at the New York Cork Report. Today we announce the finalists in our New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year project. 

Each of these finalists was hand-picked by our regional editors from the hundreds of wines each has tasted throughout the year.

These finalists will be tasted blind by our editors, first within regional-style flights to determine regional Wines of the Year (by simple majority vote), and then against other regional winners for possible New York Wine of the Year status.

"New York Wine of the Year" will only be awarded if there is a unanimous choice.

Congratulations to each of our 2009 finalists:

Red Wines

Finger Lakes
Heart & Hands Wine Company 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir
Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc
Keuka Spring Vineyards 2007 Lemberger
Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc
Shalestone Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc

Long Island
Lenz Winery 2002 Old Vines Merlot
Lieb Family Cellars 2004 Merlot Reserve
Raphael 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Roanoke Vineyards 2005 Merlot
Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc
Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2005 Christian's Cuvee Merlot

Niagara Escarpment
Arrowhead Spring Vineyards Meritage Reserve 2007
Eveningside Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2007
Freedom Run Winery Estate Cabernet Franc 2007
Freedom Run Winery Estate Pinot Noir 2008
Leonard Oakes Estate Winery Meritage 2007

White Wines

Long Island
Channing Daughters Winery 2008 Ramato
Channing Daughters Winery 2007 Vino Bianco
Lenz Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer
Paumanok Vineyards 2008 Chenin Blanc
Raphael 2008 Naturale

Finger Lakes
Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling
Billsboro Winery 2008 Riesling
Fox Run Vineyards 2008 Reserve Riesling
Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 HJW Vineyard Riesling
Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Argetsinger Dry Riesling
Red Newt Cellars 2007 Curry Creek Vineyard Gewurztraminer

Niagara Escarpment
Arrowhead Spring Vineyards Chardonnay 2007
Eveningside Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve 2008
Freedom Run Winery Chardonnay 2008
Freedom Run Winery Estate Riesling 2008
Leonard Oakes Estate Winery Chardonnay 2008

Sparkling Wines

Long Island
Sherwood House Vineyards 2004 Blanc de Blancs
Sparkling Pointe 2000 Brut Seduction

Finger Lakes
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars 1999 Prestige Cuvee
Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Cuvee Brut

Dessert Wines

Long Island
Macari Vineyards 2005 Block E Sauvignon Blanc
Paumanok Vineyards 2008 Late Harvest Riesling

Finger Lakes
Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 Riesling Berry Selection
Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Bunch Select Late Harvest Riesling

Niagara Escarpment
Leonard Oakes Estate Winery Vidal Ice Wine 2008
Schulze Vineyards & Winery Block Three Ice Wine 2008

You'll note that two regions, the Hudson River Region and Chautauqua-Lake Erie, aren't on this list. Chautauqua-Lake Erie will not be represented this year because we simply don't have enough experience with those wines to feel comfortable choosing finalists. We will be adding Hudson Valley wines -- 3 whites and 3 reds -- to the list later this week.

The blind tasting will take place on December 30 at Heart & Hands Wine Company in Union Springs, NY on Cayuga Lake, a central location for the editors to meet. Because Heart & Hands is also a finalist in the Finger Lakes - Red Wines category, owners Tom and Susan Higgins will not be permitted in the room during that flight.

The winners will be announced sometime during the first week of January, though they will likely leak out via Twitter not long after the tasting.

Look for a post tomorrow about our "2009 Readers Choice" award kick-off as well!

Note: There are 6 white wine finalists from the Finger Lakes and 6 red wine finalists from Long Island because the editors wanted to recognize an added wine. We also did not include any sparkling wine from the Niagara Escarpment region because there aren't enough producers.

What We Drank (November 30, 2009)

For this week's edition of What We Drank, our contributors share some of their favorite libations from the Thanksgiving weekend. As per usual, it's a diverse grouping of delicious sips.

From Julia Burke: Leonard Oakes Estate 2008 Frontenac and Heart & Hands Wine Company 2006 Pinot Noir

My actual Thanksgiving meal could be charitably described as "underwhelming". Grandma insisted on our first-ever restaurant Thanksgiving, and the place we chose lost points quickly in my book for having no New York wine (or any really interesting wine), mediocre food, and -- unforgivably -- no cranberry sauce.

My immediate family being one to make lemonade out of lemons, we had our own Thanksgiving as soon as we got home: I whipped out the local wine, my sister and I made some grilled cheese sandwiches, and we all proceeded to get drunk together and watch Home Alone.

The wines of the night were Leonard Oakes 2008 Frontenac, a deep, meaty, cherry-licious, badass version of a usually sub-par hybrid that was so primeval it could almost be described as bloody. The whiff of cherry candy gave it a weird and fun note; ultimately this deep, bold wine sold my uninitiated godparents on Niagara reds. 

Representing the Finger Lakes I chose a 2006 Heart & Hands Pinot Noir. Raspberry/cherry notes and incredibly subtle oak -- a rarity in FL pinot, in my experience -- made this a delightful lighter-bodied red for those intimidated by the Frontenac.

Watching my family sipping and enjoying the efforts of winemakers I've actually met, I was thankful to live in a state with a dynamic wine industry, and the lousy meal was long forgotten.

From Evan Dawson: Bois de Boursan 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee des Felix

This wine immediately finds its place among my A-ha wines. It was nearly a religious experience.

My wife and I opened this bottle the night after Thanksgiving to enjoy with leftovers for a nice, slow evening. We enjoy CdP, and we expected to enjoy this one in particular because it's the high-end cuvee from one of our favorite producers. 

CdP tends to offer two styles. The first is a brambly wine, highly indicative of its sense of place, streaked with iron or graphite, olives and tar, along with subtle fruit. The second can be a monster, oaked and pumped up with rich fruits.

This wine reached in all directions and pulled in everything it could find, weaving it all together seamlessly. "Long" wouldn't begin to describe it; it's not quite the War and Peace of wine, but close. I have even discovered an online retailer offering bottles for half price as it tries to move inventory - ding a ling ding. Happy Thanksgiving indeed.

 

From Jason Feulner: Saranac 1888 Root Beer

Just a plain old root beer?!?! Not at all.

I live for this stuff. Every time my wife and I are at the grocery store, I beg for a six-pack like a little kid.

Saranac is a line of beer and soft drinks made by the Matt Brewing Company, located in Utica, NY. The company traces its history back to 1888 and was known for a long time as the maker of Utica Club beer. The Saranac line is appreciated among beer drinkers, and the various styles range from okay to pretty darn good.

I have tried all kinds of craft root beers from all over the place, and I have never found one that is as good as Saranac. It has a creamy resonance, a distinct root beer taste, and just a hint of cane sugar backed by vanilla. Some bars in Syracuse have this root beer on tap -- talk about responsible drinking!

Normally, give me wine or beer or just plain water. I don't love soda. This Saranac root beer is my exception.

 

From Lenn Thompson: Red Newt Wine Cellars 2006 Riesling Reserve

 There were a great many wines opened, tasted and consumed during the four days we spent in western PA visiting my family for the Thanksgiving holidays. We had everything from Hudson Valley Frontenac to Chilean Carmenere to Touraine Gamay to Long Island Gewurztraminer to several Finger Lakes rieslings -- this 2006 reserve from Red New Wine Cellars standing out from the crowd.

It didn't quite make it to the Thanksgiving table, though. We did a bulk of the wine drinking leading up to the meal, sitting in the living room, nibbling on cheese and bread, laughing as our two year-old entertained the family.

This one stood out because of the minerally vein of acidity that ran from start to finish. That acid cut through the richness of the cheese magically and refreshed the palate with each sip.

Plus, drinking a wine from Red Newt reminded my aunt and her husband of the trip they took to the Finger Lakes a few years ago after they got married -- because they went there and enjoyed it quite a bit. They also enjoyed telling me about a restaurant not far from there that they adored but couldn't remember the name of -- even though they ate there twice during their visit. "It was a woman's name I think," my aunt said.

"You mean Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine?" I responded, followed by a broad smile crossing her face.

Yes, she meant Suzanne and I have to agree, it's a fine fine restaurant. I was thankful that something as simple as a wine I pulled from my cellar could conjure up great memories for my family.

From Tom Mansell: Mazza Vineyards NV Niagara

When you're traveling for Thanksgiving, sometimes you have to roll with whatever your host has on hand. 

In this case, I stayed at my cousin's house one night and was treated to some Thanksgiving leftovers: turkey and filling (which is distinct from stuffing and generally much more delicious). 

I was not equipped with any wine of my own at the moment, so I checked out the fridge. My cousin apologized for not having any "real" wine (speaking of the Arbor Mist), but I zeroed in on the screwcapped bottle on the door.

This bottle of Lake Erie Niagara from PA had been in the fridge for who-knows-how long, but I gave it a shot anyway. And you know what?  It was ice cold and really delicious. Yes, it was grapey, but also very fruity in general, with some mixed berries. Nice acidity and palpable sweetness was really refreshing after a long day of traveling.  Low alcohol helped that, as well.

But the coolest thing about this bottle was what came out as I poured the last glass (see picture).  A rock-candy-like formation that could only be some kind of super tartrate crystal. I guess all that time in the fridge was ideal for growing this huge crystal. It was like finding a worm at the bottom of a bottle of mezcal.  No, I didn't eat it, but I did take a picture of it. This was my most memorable thanksgiving wine experience. 

Some consumers might have been turned off by such a thing, but as you may know, I find these kinds of things incredibly cool.

 

From Bryan Calandrelli: Guba/Cal Selections Trockenbeerenauslese 2008

Dessert wines stole the show at my Thanksgiving dinner as I chose a local vidal ice wine and this TBA made by a friend of mine at a local winery.

The grapes for this botrytis-blessed wine were all hand sorted, grape by grape, from a late riesling harvest conducted by me and my friend.

This 187ml bottle was just one of four I took home from the whopping 2½-gallon carboy of TBA made. At least ten hours went into sorting the grapes and countless other hours went into fermenting and finishing this wine for bottling.

In the tiny glass, the wine showed an impressive gold color with concentrated aromas of apricot and peach. On the palate it had super rich body and balanced acidity.

Poured side by side with the ice wine, the TBA showed more complexity and sweetness. It didn’t need the raspberry tart I paired it with, as it was dessert enough by itself.

If You're Not Thankful For the Chance to Meet Winemakers Up Close, You Should Be

Josh Wig, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars' general manager, giving a tour of their estate vineyards

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Tuscany is a dream vacation, but be warned: even with appointments, you often will only meet a tour guide, rather than the winemakers who craft Brunello.

Napa can be an ideal getaway, but if you don't know someone who knows someone, you might be stuck in the tasting room.

The Finger Lakes is not only a mind-clearing destination, but stop by one of the wineries some time and you might be asked to put on gloves and assist the winemaker. 

This is only barely an exaggeration. If you're within a tank of gas from the Finger Lakes (or Long Island, or the Hudson Valley, or the Niagara Escarpment), you have the opportunity to get to know winemakers on a personal level. When you pour their wines, you might very well have participated in its making. You might know the story of the land on which the grapes grew. You might have witnessed the winemaker decide to let the grapes hang another week; maybe you tasted in the barrel room while hearing a winemaker's philosophy on how to bring the very best into the bottle.

Wine is food, and food is simply the result of hard-working agriculture. It is not elitist nor pretentious. It does not favor the wealthy. It does not segregate. 

Yes, wine can be co-opted by those who seek to make it nothing more than a trophy. But for those who have taken the time to converse with the growers and the owners and the winemakers, it is only a trophy that signifies pride in one's place.

If there is a disappointment for consumers in the Finger Lakes, it is that too few wineries offer regular tours. This is slowly changing. But a simple phone call almost always yields an opportunity to meet the people making the wine. And that phone call might even be answered by the winemaker or owner. This is the nature of a small, quality-driven region. There simply isn't cash-flow for a large staff and lavish events.

So on Thanksgiving, if you happen to open a Finger Lakes wine, ask yourself if you're familiar with the story of that wine. If you're not, find some time to travel the short distance and find out. If you are, share it with your friends and family. This is how wine is de-mystified. And living here, within easy reach of the tank rooms and vineyards that are typically off-limits in larger wine regions, is something for which we can be truly thankful.

Q&A: DJ Swanson, Head Brewer, Greenport Harbor Brewing Company

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

DJ Swanson, head brewer at Greenport Harbor Brewing Company, should be inspiring for anyone working in a corporate job who has dreams of following his or her passion and making a career of it.

DJ started homebrewing about 15 years ago, when he bought homebrew supplies from Carl Burnham, the head brewer at Union Station Brewery in Providence, RI.

At the time, Burnham knew about DJ's interest in brewing professionally and in September of 2000 he hired DJ away from his accounting position at a finance company. A little over a year later, DJ was offered the head brewer position at John Harvard's Brew House in Lake Grove, NY, where he worked for almost five years.

After a brief break from brewing, during which he worked in pharmaceuticals, DJ then spent a year distilling professionally on Long Island before joining the new brewery in Greenport last April.

And now, our standard set of questions:

What (and where) was the first beer you remember drinking?
I was always the kid sneaking sips from my dad's beer -- usually Old Milwaukee. My first brewery visit was as a Boy Scout on a camping trip in New Hampshire. I loved the smells and the tanks. Can you imagine stopping at a brewery with a bunch of 10 year-olds today?

I really started to explore good beer at the Mews Tavern in Wakefield, RI after I turned 21. They had 69 taps and always something new to try.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the beer industry?
My wife and I went to Fenway Park for a Red Sox game and did lunch across the street at Boston Beer Works. They were brewing the day we were there and I knew I had to try brewing my own. That first batch was good and it all went from there. An interesting journey from Boston to Greenport!

Which of your current beers is your favorite and why?
I waver between the Disorient IPA and the Black Duck Porter. It depends on my mood but they are both, I think, so flavorful without being over the top. I try to brew the kind of beers I'd want to drink.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the New York beer community?
It has changed so much since I've been here. I really love the diversity and camaraderie of it, especially here on Long Island. It's a great group of brewers and really the whole beer scene on Long Island is full of great people.

Other than your own beers, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
If I'm buying beer I usually reach for one of three breweries: Sierra Nevada, Smuttynose or Allagash. There are so many good ones but those are my standbys.

Is there a 'classic' beer style or beerand food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Hefeweizen! I can appreciate them, but I'll never like them. People have tried but can't make me.

Beer enjoyment is about more than just the beer itself. Describe the combination of beer, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate beer-drinking experience.
One of my favorite experiences is sitting outside at the beginning of fall in the back yard with a fire going, making some s'mores with the kids and some friends and a growler of Black Duck Porter. Low-key and relaxing and the beer and everything went together perfectly!